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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.